Free Dead Pixel Test & Stuck Pixel Fixer

What Is a Dead Pixel Test?

A dead pixel test fills the screen with solid colors so you can find pixels that do not behave like the rest of the panel. A true dead pixel stays black on bright backgrounds because it is not lighting at all. A stuck pixel stays red, green, blue, white, cyan, magenta, or yellow because one or more sub-pixels are locked on. A hot pixel is always bright and is easiest to see on black.

The tester above covers the full workflow: fullscreen color inspection, quick defect logging, display information, and a separate repair mode for stuck or hot pixels. It runs locally in your browser and does not upload anything.

How to Test for Dead, Stuck, and Hot Pixels

1. Clean the display with a microfiber cloth so dust is not mistaken for a pixel defect.
2. Open the tool in fullscreen mode and start with the white screen.
3. Switch through black, red, green, blue, yellow, magenta, cyan, and gray.
4. Scan slowly in rows from left to right, then inspect the corners and edges.
5. Use the diagnosis panel to classify what you see as dead, stuck, hot, or dust/scratch.
6. If the dot is colored or bright rather than black, try the targeted repair mode and retest.

Dead Pixel vs Stuck Pixel vs Hot Pixel

Dead pixel: a black dot that does not light on white, red, green, blue, or gray screens. Software usually cannot revive it because the pixel circuitry or emitting material is likely damaged.

Stuck pixel: a dot that stays one color while the background changes. It may be red, green, blue, cyan, magenta, yellow, or white. Some stuck pixels respond to rapid color cycling because the pixel is still receiving power.

Hot pixel: a bright white dot that stands out on black. Hot pixels can sometimes behave like stuck pixels, so a repair attempt may be worth trying before you decide on warranty or panel replacement.

How the Pixel Repair Mode Works

The repair mode rapidly cycles colors to exercise the selected pixel area. Use the target-zone option first: drag the small flashing box over the stuck or hot pixel and run a 5, 10, or 20 minute cycle. Full-display repair is available, but it flashes the entire panel and should be used cautiously.

This is a repair attempt, not a guarantee. It is most reasonable for stuck or hot pixels. A confirmed black dead pixel is usually a hardware fault, so the practical next step is checking the seller return window or the manufacturer's pixel policy.

Photosensitivity warning: do not watch the flashing repair area directly. Stop immediately if you feel discomfort, and do not use repair mode if flashing lights may trigger symptoms for you.

Best Color Screens for Each Defect

• White: best first pass for black dead pixels, dust, scratches, and dark spots.
• Black: best for hot pixels, bright stuck pixels, backlight bleed, and IPS glow.
• Red, green, blue: best for isolating sub-pixel defects by color channel.
• Cyan, magenta, yellow: useful for confirming mixed sub-pixel problems.
• Gray: useful for tint, uniformity, banding, and subtle panel marks.

Common Problems and What to Do

• One sharp black dot on white and RGB screens: likely a true dead pixel. Retest twice, then check the return or warranty policy.
• A colored dot visible on black or some colors: likely a stuck sub-pixel. Use targeted repair mode for 10 minutes, then retest.
• A white dot visible on black: likely a hot pixel. Try targeted repair, then compare with the black screen again.
• A fuzzy or irregular mark: likely dust, pressure damage, a scratch, or a panel stain rather than a single pixel defect.
• A cluster of defects: usually not a software-fix case. Photograph it and contact the seller or manufacturer.